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KOREA
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Some observations/generalizations about Korea:
- Younger Koreans are very friendly and engaging.
- Koreans of all ages have a very good sense of humor.
- Koreans do not like the Japanese much, largely because the Japanese occupied
Korea from 1910 to 1945, which Japanese textbooks downplay.
- Koreans drink a lot.
- Korea is the first 1st World country we've been to on this trip (which was nice).
- The Korean is physically the largest species of Asian we have encountered.
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While in Seoul, we visited the DMZ. North and South Korea are technically still at war, since only a ceasefire was signed in 1953. Since then, the North Koreans covertly built over 20 tunnels under the DMZ, designed to facilitate an invasion of South Korea. The tunnel we visited could transport 10,000 troops per hour under the DMZ (unfortunately, cameras were not permitted in the tunnels). When the South Koreans discovered the tunnels, North Korea immediately denied involvement, claiming instead that South Korea had built them to invade the north. When irrefutable proof emerged that North Korea had indeed built the tunnels, the North lamely claimed that the tunnels were built for “coal mining.” There is no coal anywhere near the DMZ.
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North and South Korea have engaged in an absurd flagpole-building contest along the DMZ. North Korea finally prevailed with a massive 160 meter tall flagpole, humbling South Korea (who could manage only 100 meters). The thing looks like the Eiffel Tower with a flag on top, and it is in the Guinness book of world records. North Korea also boasts a very nice looking town just across the DMZ. Problem is, no one lives there--it is entirely for show. The only sign of life I could make out on the northern side (through a telescope) was the chilling sight of a convoy of 100 military trucks (no exaggeration).
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North Korea is the most effed up country in the world (my apologies to various African countries—you are also effed up, but you don’t have nuclear weapons or such an organized system of effing yourself up). Great Leader Kim Il Sung, who died ten years ago (after a long career of repression and executions) is officially still head of state. They have frozen his body, and once science has advanced sufficiently, he will be brought back to life to lead his country once again. At least that’s the plan. In the meantime, Dear Leader Kim Jong Il runs the show. When Dear Leader is not developing nuclear weapons, he enjoys fine wines, lavish palaces, kidnappings, and Russian prostitutes. His subjects fare less well. Those who haven’t starved to death are hungry most of the time, their electricity rarely works, and they must attend “political education” meeting six nights a week (where they learn, among other things, that the U.S. is to blame for all their problems). If you fail to learn these lessons, Dear Leader will send you to a “political re-education” camp, where you will likely be worked to death. Alternatively, you will be hung or shot in the town square, a spectacle the entire town will be forced to watch. This nuclear weapon-having lunatic is one sick midget. If I were in the White House, I’d have someone (perhaps the Russian mafia using one of Dear Leader’s Russian prostitutes) whack him and his son, then see what happens. Couldn’t be worse than the current situation. Something tells me that Condi, Rummy, Cheney haven’t presented that option to Dubya.
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Sunshine Policy and Reunification. The South Koreans hope to reunify with North Korea within 20 years. The first step of the plan is to engage the north economically: South Korea already announced massive aid to help North Korea’s failing power grid, and if all goes according to plan, Hyundai will build a plant in North Korea and a railway will connect the two countries by 2007. Reunification is obviously impossible as long as Kim Jong Il—or another dictator—is in power, so the political side of the equation is thornier. Even if North Korea’s economy were to strengthen within 20 years, and the political system were miraculously to change and permit for reunification, it would be challenging for South Korea to deal with an entire country of completely brainwashed people.
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This statute (above) represents the attempt to reunify Korea—I’m trying to help, while Keith, who thinks reunification would be a bum deal for South Korea, is doing his best to prevent it. Ha.
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Seoul is a happening place. It is teeming with Ginza-esque streets packed with every type of bar, club, restaurant, shop, and coffee shop imaginable. The nightlife is quite something, and as a consequence, we were treated to the sunrise on more than one occasion. Pitchers of beer come in a 3L size, and even the girls seemed to be downing gallons of the stuff. Soju is also quite popular.
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Hi I’m Johnny Knoxville and this, is Gyeongju.
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Gyeongju, in southeastern Korea, was the capital of the Silla dynasty, which ruled a large part of South Korea form 56 B.C. to 967 A.D. The town is dotted with large mounds of grass, which is how Silla royalty were buried.
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After two exhausting hours on the bike, we finally made it to Bul Guk Sa temple. The temple is the “crowning glory” of Silla temple architecture, and is on the Unesco World Cultural Heritage List. Here’s a direct quote from the description posted outside the temple that made shamefully made Keith and me chuckle: “The temple served as a center of prayer against foreign invasion. The entire temple was burnt down by Japanese invaders in 1593.” We also visited the local museum, Anapachi Pond, and Asia's largest bell.
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Next up, I think we're skipping Russia (it's an expensive hassle to get the necessary visa and invitation, and only St. Petersburg actually sounds interesting) and going straight to the Baltics.
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