Muang Ngoi

The six hour boat ride from Luang Prabang to Muang Ngoi was beautiful, and it also afforded us a glimpse into how the majority of Laotians live—through subsistence farming and fishing.

Muang Ngoi is one of the most primitive places I’ve ever visited.  It consists of roughly 30 ramshackle huts along a dusty path, overrun by chickens, turkeys, pigs, and dogs.  My dismally inadequate hut ($2/night) represented the height of local luxury.  It contained nothing more than two tiny mats and a blanket, which turned out to be infested with some type of bedmite (at least I didn’t have to share my hut with a hungry rat, as Keith did).  The nearby “bathroom” consisted of a hole in the floor, and a spout that occasionally spewed some cold water.  A generator cranked up between 6:30 and 9:30 to afford some electricity, after which time you’ll need a flashlight.  The primitive and "unspoiled" charm actually grows on you, though.

While in Muang Ngoi, we went canoeing and caving, which was spectacular.

Caving

Keith's favorite stalactites (left) My favorites   (right)

Our guide’s name was Kan, and upon our return, we had dinner at his restaurant.  We brought Keith’s Ipod, my laptop, 25 DVDs, and my portable speakers.  We (including Kan’s kids) had a blast listening to Keith’s music, showing them the day’s photos on the laptop, and then watching The Bourne Identity. (until the power went off at 9:30, of course)

The next day, we went hill tribe trekking (to see hilltribe webpage, click here). When we returned, we hung out with the dudes we met on the trek, and then began the journey back to civilization.   The truck ride back was to Luang Prabang quite amusing, as the horn-honking speed demon behind the wheel just kept piling in locals along the way.  The locals jabbered incessantly, revealing teeth stained completely black (no exaggeration) by a lifetime of Betelnut chewing.

While leaving Muang Ngoi, the intrepid but disheveled travelers congratulated each other for finding Muang Ngoi now, “before the place is ruined in five years.”  Although I nodded in solemn approval, I must confess I was looking forward to the warm shower, electricity, and clean bed waiting for me in Luang Prabang.   (Incidentally, by the time I finished my shower in Luang Prabang, it looked like a herd of filthy water buffalo had used it.)